fredag 12. august 2011
What is it about surfing that I like???
I think I always had an attraction to the difficult sports, like gymnastics, dancing, skateboarding, snowboarding, climbing and now surfing. Not because they are difficult to learn, but because they are beautiful and aesthetic to watch, because you forget time and place. You are in the element with your inner self.
It`s not difficult just to stand on the board, but surfing is about everything else! To read the sea, understand how the water moves, manage to paddle out, get through all the whitewater, reach the line up. To find out where the wave starts to break (The peak). Be in the right position at the right time, get the same speed as the wave. Stand up at the right time, place your feet at the right spot on the board and........... surf!
I`m not yet a part of the element. But I learn every day. Some days are really good, other days are not so good - but what is always good is to be in the sea. I feel kind of weightless and a part of the amazing nature that surround us all the time. Instead of sitting in front of my computer or drive my car, I`m actually in the nature.
At the same time, the sea can be scary. Suddenly you are in a stream that leads you far out. Too far sometimes, and if you don`t know how to handle it, you can be in serious trouble. Or if you go surfing when the waves are bigger than what is comfortable for you, you will get beaten up or the waves push you into rocks.
But a good thing is that you will get more interested in the weather forecast. You want the right wind direction, wich is offshore, the right size of swell and the right period between the waves, so you have enough time to paddle. You have to check the tide as well, cause some breaks works better on a certain tide. Yeah, so it`s almost a lifetime study to learn how to surf, and I don`t really rush anything. I just know deep inside that I want to surf those waves out there and to be one with this element.
I`m not a morningperson, but it`s definitely super nice to be in the water in the early hours. To see the sunrise, the nice and calm water and ofcourse the coffee afterwards! Also eveningsurf is sweet, but then I forget to surf, because I`m busy watching the sunset! I love sunsets........ Here is one of my favorite sunsets just outside my home in Ericeira - Blue Buddha hostel!